The pubs of Dublin
Some that we didn't go into:

Near Christchurch Cathedral.

In Temple Bar

Also in Temple Bar.
And some that we did:

We have four different versions of this photo of us
outside of Mulligan's,
one from each of the four times we've been to Dublin.

You might think it's hype, but we sampled Guinness
all over Dublin, and Mulligan's really does
pour the smoothest pint.

The old-fashioned back room was quiet the afternoon we were there.

The light was lovely.

Slainte!

This is the gorgeous International Bar,
where the 1916 Rebellion Walking Tour starts.
More on that later.
Doheny and Nesbitt is one of three great old pubs
very near St. Stephen's Green.
The other two are Toner's, and Kehoe's.
We visited all three.
Kehoe's was very busy on the weekend,
but had a much more
relaxed ambience during the week.
They burn a peat fire in the fireplace
and I stood outside
and just sniffed and sniffed the air.
This is the view from inside the snug at Kehoe's.
Snugs are small rooms
that were originally for women,
who were not allowed at the bar.
They have windows with sliding doors and a shelf;
when the woman was done with her pint she would
slide the window open, place her empty glass on the shelf,
and the publican would whisk it away and bring her
another pint. Very convenient.

The back wall at Doheny and Nesbitt.
Toner's was one of our favorite places and would be
our local if we happened to live in Dublin,
along Upper Baggott Street.

Toner's used to be a grocery store/pub, a long time ago.

The publicans and barkeeps in Dublin are professionals
and take their jobs very seriously. They wear dress shirts
and ties, and they work very hard.
Doug made a little movie
of this guy, which I will post later.

If you look closely into this mirror, you can see two
Midwestern Americans.

The Duke, one of the only pubs we could find that
served Harp. Most of the pubs have Heineken
and Carlsberg on tap, but not Irish Harp. Go figure.
(When I asked a bartender why, he just
gave me a long look and didn't answer.
One of the guide books says that Irish people
refer to Harp as "tinkers' piss."
So that might explain it.)
O'Donoghue's, near St. Stephen's Green,
quite famous for their traditional music.
The music was not particularly good this night,
and we left after one drink.
On a previous trip, the music was wonderful
and the place was full, primarily of German tourists.
After playing one Irish tune after another,
the band suddenly launched
into "Country Roads, Take Me Home,"
and the entire bar sang along.


















22 comments:
Great photos!
I always thought The Palace Bar on Fleet Street would be my local. It's fairly small and gets packed easily. I love the street lamp in front of it and the inside, of course.
Love this post!
Oooh, and the new header is LOVELY!!! How are the two doing?
Pubs here are fairly similar, in fact when I was first old enough to drink, women were still not allowed in the Public Bar, and had to drink in the Lounge Bar.
PS. Love the new masthead, I'd swap Belle for Riley any day.
Oh those lovely Irish pubs. When we were in Irish pubs in Cork, one or two of the customers would just break into song and sing lovely folk songs with perfect notes. It was probably the Guinness talking, but it was beautiful.
There is just something about Ireland that calls to me.
The boys are looking particularly fine up top.
All of the pubs look so lovely. What a good time you must have had. Did you order Harp when you found it?
In the west of Ireland Budweiser is very popular. Yikes!
Heineken is a poor representative of a good Dutch beer. There are so many others that are so much better. It's a shame that it has to be Heineken that's available.
Those pubs look great. Haven't seen anything like it before, so well preserved and so authentic. Do you have that sort of thing on the East Coast too? I don't know if we have anything that decorative in the Netherlands.
kaycie, i drank Harp when i could find it--the duke pub had it, and o'donoghue's, but i didn't find it anywhere else. i might have missed it. it's my beer of choice at home.
irene, heineken does an amazing job of marketing in ireland--signs were everywhere, and of course there's the Heineken Cup, which was going on while we were there, and i think that's what makes it popular more than the taste.
carlsberg i didn't like at all--too fizzy and light.
and premium t, i remember that. i remember trying to tell people that it's a cheap college guy beer here, but nobody would listen to me. just like i won't listen to them about harp.
Such great photos.
And your boys are looking mighty fine in that new header:-)
I'm playing catch up. Luvly place to start!
Thank you for sharing your trip; how I long to see Ireland.
I love the new header-- they just look so content.
Did you know if the pubs were independently owned, or have the chains started to rise in Ireland like they have in England? We had good experiences in some of the chains (Youngs, Spirit Group), but we saw that the Wetherspoons pubs served Coors Light and we avoided them on principle.
How charming--you and Doug look like each other! I know that's supposed to happen to long-married couples, but much, much older than you. You're ahead of the game.
Really enjoyed your photos. As you may know my sister lived in Dublin for about 9 years but I never actually went into the centre! Trust the women to get shoved to the back room!!
CJ xx
michele, as far as i know most of them are still family-owned. the guide for the literary pub crawl (more on that later) told me that running a pub was a catholic tradition, since catholics were banned from so many professions for so many years, and they are still handed down, family to family.
a good book on irish pubs is "a pint of plain," by bill barich, which came out earlier this year. i read it in february or so and can't remember if he addressed that question.
lali, i am pretty sure that nobody has ever said before that doug and i look alike. mostly they say that doug looks like tim robbins or garrison keillor. i think what you're seeing is that we both look happy.
oh, and babaloo--we didn't go to the palace bar on fleet street this time. but we have been there before. i agree; it's lovely.
Then I'll be the second person to say it: Gee, you and Doug really look alike.
And now I feel homesick for a place I've never been...
What fun!! Well, hopefully I'll be Eire-bound in the next couple o' years (have to save me pennies).
I'll be back here for hints at itinerary, and pub/music places!! :)
The cozy colors and wood grains in those bars make me thirsty. I could spend a lot of hours in pubs like those.
Wow! You two look like newlyweds in front of Mulligan's.
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